{quilt} while you're ahead

*109** postcards from LA art district

... on the road early, in the rain (and they say it never rains in Southern California... right...)

We had an afternoon to kill before our evening flight so we headed towards the Art District of LA and more out of luck thank knowledge  ended up on a really cool street full of really cool shops and graffitis..

In Guerilla Atelier we spied our first (and only) celebrity... Corbin Bernsen was buying a black cowboy hat.. (And this is where it's weird... I first 'met' him - in the loosest possible way - in 1988 when me and my American sister were in the crowd scenes of the first Major League movie filmed at the Milwaukee Brewers Stadium.  I even got his autograph somewhere in a box).

He then followed us (of course) to lunch in Manuela, a fantastic restaurant we found ourselves in by chance.  I had the most delicious BLT salad, and shared a squid dish and a brussels sprouts/fried potatoes/chilli thang with Mr M.  Stuffed.  Oh and drank my first kombucha pomegranate... very nice.

We then visited the most amazing exhibition in the Houser Wirth & Schimmel gallery: Schwitters Miro' Arp.  Stunning.  I knew of Miro' of course, but Schwitters and Arp? A revelation.

Poketo was another shop we visited, cute house wares/gifts/jewellery and a few clothes:

Mr M found a couple of really nice shirts in Apolis:

We had a fabulous ice-cream in Salt and Straw, because why not, right?

Bought coasters in Alchemy Works (you can see Mr M in action at the till) and finished the day drooling (oh my what a place... I might paint my whole house black....) in Hammer and Spears.  Not even joking.

Good day.

Yep, we got love.

 

Time to go home.

 

 

*108** postcards from Palm Springs

Last day.

(as much as I need to see my boys - after a week there's a tugging inside me that wants to bring me back home - I know I haven't finished with this place... I have to come back)

Mr M went off for another run and I cycled to a midcentury church a few miles away.

love the simple altar

The church was designed by the architect William F Cody in 1968.  From an article by Robert Imber in Palm Springs Life:

 

Viewed from the street, its soaring pyramidal spire is an uplifting experience, beautiful in any given daylight towering in front of the daily drama of the distant western mountains.

Large, graceful sculptural forms are made of gunite, a sprayed concrete such as found in swimming pools and boats. The dramatic curved beams are Glulam – boards glued and laminated into a strong structural beam.

Inside, the encounter richly unfolds under a pagoda like structure embellished with Italian travertine forms, walnut pews, distinctive terrazzo, bronze fittings, remarkable lighting and an enriching sense of space that transcends the desert.

High, narrow clerestory windows draw the eye out to the mountain peaks, while along the floor below mirror-image windows “bring us back” to terra-firma placing the desert floor at our feet from within the building. I call them grounding windows, and am moved by the experience on every visit.

 

We then popped in the Palm Spring Art Museum, housed in a gorgeous building designed by E. Stewart Williams.

We saw a very interesting exhibition called 'Go West', a great look at the Weiner family collection of sculptures (how many 'Henry Moores' is too many 'Henry Moores'?) and had a fun mooch on the top floor amongst contemporary artists.

Brian Wills (Untitled, 2013)

Stanley Whitney (Blue meets yellow, 2011)

 

In the afternoon we visited Sunnyland, the house of Walter and Leonor Annenberg... incredible midcentury residence designed by E. Quincy Jones (surrounded by its own 9 hole golf course and the most amazing view I've ever seen).  The Annenberg were philanthropist and art collectors and hosted many presidents and ministers and Royals ... their list of guests was quite incredible!

You're not allowed to take photos inside the house... but let me tell you... it's rather spectacular... not many of us have a fountain in the middle of our home with a Rodin statue in it... just saying.

Don't look at me... look at the view behind!

 

*107** postcards from Palm Springs

Still here... still loving it.

More than loving it, actually.

 

We took an architectural tour ran by a really nice chap called Robert Imber, so totally passionate about architecture and so in love with this city that it was a joy to listen to him.  We spent the morning in his company and he was very knowledgeable, if you're ever in the neighbourhood I would highly recommend taking his tour.

(Palevski house, 1968, designed by Craig Ellwood)

(Edris house, 1954, designed by E Stewart Williams)

(Kaufmann house, 1954, designed by Richard Neutra)

(432 Hermosa - the Dinah Shore house, now owned by Leonardo di Caprio, 1964, designed by Donald Wexler)

 

These are just a few of the many many many houses we were told about and drove by.  Truly amazing.

 

This morning while Mr M was on his daily run I borrowed a bike from the hotel and drove around the neighbourhoods of Indian Canyon and Twin Palms.  

Oh boy.

I might never leave this place.  It's just too beautiful.

(That was after working out how to ride a bike with no breaks, just some weird back-pedalling action... interesting few early manoeuvres... just saying)

Everywhere I looked there was something to photograph... I kept saying to myself... 'That one, that is the one'... and then I turned the corner and there was something else that caught my eyes...

... a detail.. or a whole house...

I can't wait to go out tomorrow morning and make sure I don't miss a thing.

 

*84** postcards from Tuscany

I'm actually writing this sitting at the table in my own kitchen back in England.  I'm waiting for No 1 son to finish his shower so we can go for a walk but I know the prospect of walking will slow him down somewhat so I can try to catch up with everything that's happened in the last week or so.

This year I drove to Italy.  Don't ask me why... it seemed more of an adventure that jumping on a plane.

On the way there I had my brother with me instead of No 2 and it was fabulous spending time with him... he is a Franciscan missionary in South Sudan and it's not often we see him.

No it wasn't cheaper, but I was able to bring back three cases of wine, 30 kg of handmade tomato sauce,  Parmesan cheese and lots of boxes of Barilla pasta on a crazy offer I couldn't not take advantage of.  The boot of the car also contained four small cases, one large holdall, one penny board, one ripboard, one longboard and a fishing rod.  Awesome, right?

Two kids and two small rucksacks on the back seat with a big bag of food and one in the front.

It worked.

We all had our moments (me when I got flashed by a speed camera in France - doh! and the boys in turn when boredom got too much for them.

I have to say food is THE key when travelling with boys.  I'm sure that at any one point there was at least one person eating something.  Also I owe huge debt of gratitude to Stephen Fry for his unbelievably good reading of the Harry Potter stories.  Brilliant.  So good in fact that even No 1 (who hates magic and stories and has always refused to even watch the movies) was hooked and totally absorbed.

Seriously life-saving stuff.

We only managed the first two books but I'll definitively download the rest for my personal enjoyment.

I also drank lots of coffee.  LOTS.

If you're interested in the route, we did it as straight as possible.... we took the train from Folkestone (a quick 30 minutes and we were in France), then straight down the motorway all the way to the Mont Blanc Tunnel.  Then South past Turin and Bologna and then into Tuscany.  Easy peasy.  Motorways aren't cheap in France or Italy but it's easy travelling.  We stopped for the night on both journey, but simply because I was the only one driving... I've done it in one stint the time dad was with me and we could share the time behind the wheel.

(in the queue for the Mont Blanc Tunnel)

I have so much to show you... but I need to get No 1 out of the shower... geesh.... kids eh?

Enjoy your bank holiday!

 

 

*76**

Day 16 - Moraine Lake

And then... just like that we're on our last day.

WHAT???

Mr M still not on top of his game so whilst the two younger ones looked after him (... not... they used him as an excuse to stay behind), No 1 and I went on another expedition.

Takakkaw Falls. (Best name btw)

A short drive from Moraine Lake (short in Canadian terms... make it 50 minutes... which is huge in English terms, right?), it's really worth a visit.  You can't actually see the top of the fall but it measures 387m.  Seven times the height of Niagara falls.  Bonkers.

And you can walk right near its bottom (treacherous and don't get too close... you get swept away by the fast river and next you know you're singing with the angels) and get totally sprayed by the mist.

Which, if you're sad like me, it's totally exciting.  

And your fifteen yr old son will walk away embarrassed.  We're at that stage in our relationship, obvs.

In the afternoon we mooched around Banff (nice place, although I'm totally kicking myself for not seeing the Hudson Bay Company store till we were driving home... doh!) and then ended our holiday at the hot springs.

Cool stuff.

(hot actually, but you know what I mean)

 

Bye bye Canada.

You've been amazing.

Miss you already.

 

Sigh.

*75** postcards from Canada

Day 15 -  Moraine Lake.

I think No 3 took pity of me because he decided to accompany me on a little hike (5.8Km return from Moraine Lake, piffles) to Consolation Lakes.

A gently climbing path through the forests leads to this gorgeous clear lake.

'Refreshing'.

We dipped our feet (yes No 3 has very big feet) in the glacial waters because let's face it, you don't get the chance to do that very often, right? (also... just as well... your feet feel like they're being squeezed into a vice)

Can you see the tiny boat on the lake?  A group of scientist were taking their yearly measurement... keeping an eye on lake transparency and water level and so on.  Not a bad day at the office I say!

 

*74** postcards from Canada

Day 14 - Moraine Lake

This place is incredible.

Just when you think you've seen all the lake variation in the world... you arrive here.

Moraine Lake is bluer than blue.

(it gets also incredibly crowded and by 10.00 people have parked a mile down the road and the road itself is shut until later)

Pinch-yourself blue.

Can't-stop-looking-at-it blue.

Mr M was not well (at all) and the weather was a bit meh, so we chilled and relaxed.  After the shenanigans of the previous two weeks we deserved a day off.

We stayed at the Lodge right on the lake and it was the perfect spot.

*73** postcards from Canada

Day 13 - Icefield Parkway.

What a drive.

Seriously but this road on your bucket list.  Now.

We left Jasper under a beautiful blue sky and I promised myself I'd be back.  We stayed at the Fairmont Jasper Lodge and I can totally recommend it.  The location is beautiful, the accommodation is spacious and it has an old charm that makes you feel immediately at home.  The boys loved the heated pool and the games room.

As I said before, we didn't stay long enough.

But the road.... oh the road to Banff is a sight to behold.

Mountains and glaciers and river beds, incredible views around every corner...

We bumped into an 'elk jam' just out of Jasper (blurry photo taken from the moving car).

First stop: Edith Calvell Glacier.  Stunning.  Short hike to the milky blue glacier fed lake.

Yes the water was cold.  

That's an understatement.

Can you see the little people on the lake shore?  Everything here is bigger than you think...

Next stop: Athabasca Falls

A bit crowded, but it's high season and a lot of the places are.

We then looked for a place to picnic and found Buck Lake by chance.  What an idyllic spot... sigh...

here's my tribe chilling and eating (which let's be honest are their two favourite activities... sloths...)

After lunch it was more miles of stunning scenery.

I can't get enough of this place.  The immense space.  The mountains.

(That's called Endless Ridge)

and this is the Athabasca river... at least I think it is... given that we then bumped into the Athabsca glacier... huge thing...

You can see my three 'scale props' (aka my children) in the foreground building towers with rocks.  Maybe next Christmas I'll buy them all a huge lorry full of rocks... they seem to have a compulsion to pile them up wherever they go.

Weird.

AND THEN... WE FINALLY SAW A BEAR!!

A real life Yoghi bear eating berries by the side of the road.

Incredible.

I felt almost moved by it.

 

What a day.

Seriously. 

Wonderful.

 

I feel so lucky.

 

*72** postcards from Canada

Day 12 - Jasper.

So here's the thing.  I love Jasper.  I'm totally bummed that I hadn't realised how gorgeous the place is and we only have one day here.

So many things and no time at all.

Also, I want a big dog and I want to call him Jasper.

One day.  Sigh.

In the morning we dragged (virtually) the boys for a walk (we did the Five Lakes loop)

As the name suggests we climbed and snaked around five very green lakes

Really green.

There were lots of mosquitoes too.  Really annoying.

In the afternoon we went white water rafting.  

It was cold.  We wore wetsuits and spray jackets and I think it was only the adrenaline that kept us warm(wish).  Exhilarating.  I strongly recommend it.

No 3 jumped in the 4C degree waters.  Just because he could.

Crazy, sweet, child of mine. 

 

 

 

*71** postcards from Canada

Day 11 - On the road/Jasper/

Or more accurately... on the overnight train to Jasper.  

Last night we returned the car and took a cab to the station.  (The taxi driver told me his brother lives in England... an hour from where we live.  Hashtag small world.)

'The Canadian' took us all the way to Jasper and it was great fun.  Sleeping  on the train was great - the rocking is perfect and you have your little cocoon of a space full of pockets and nooks and crannies for your things, loved it -, the food was great too

(this was breakfast) and whilst the train itself could have done perhaps with a refurb... the staff were great and it was wonderful to sit back and watch the world roll by.

Well, some of us looked out of the window ...

... not all...

We arrived in Jasper early afternoon and got settled quickly so that the husband and I could fit a refreshing walk before dinner

I'm still waiting to see a bear... in the meantime this little squirrel is kind of cute...